Why were we doing this?
After we had spent a night in Hue we needed a plan. Where were we going next? And how would we get there?
Our only option
We decided the plan was to fly to Hanoi, some 688 kms away, and go to Halong Bay. However, all the flights were booked.
Our next option was to take the train, overnight for 14 hours. We were told by our Vietnamese local travel agent that we could get a compartment with beds on the train for the 6 of us and decided that seemed like a fair plan.
After paying and lining this up as our plan, we headed to get some bread rolls to have as dinner on the train as well as some bottles of water and other snacks.
We came back to our travel agent to pick up our train tickets and were told we missed compartment ticket and would have to take the ‘padded seats’. Essentially like being on a plane, but on a train, for 14 hours…
Well, we thought, plane journeys aren’t all that bad so we’ll have to do it if we want to get to Hanoi! See the bright green route map below.
The actuality
Once our train arrived, we jumped on with our luggage and went inside of the train carriage to find our seats. Within 2 seconds of seeing the state of the carriage and why we were really about to be subjected to I turned to My Hunk and said
“WHAT THE FUCK ARE WE DOING HERE?!?!!!”
My Hunk encouraged me to continue down the carriage as this was definitely happening (ie there is nothing we can do now) so on I went.
The train was old and unbecoming. The people were all locals and looked like they lived on that train (we found out it had started in Ho Chi Minh, so they HAD been on that train for 24 hours already). The floors were filthy. There was lots of coughing and spitting going on (Blergh!). Don’t get me started on the smells..!
Getting seated
Upon finding my seat, there was an old Vietnamese lady sitting in it, and no luggage room. Immediately I freak out in my head “what am I going to do?!”. After a deep breath, calmly I try to tell the little old lady she’s in my seat and would she mind moving over. Thankfully a younger Vietnamese girl who spoke English helped me translate.
Meanwhile, the rest of our party were somewhat split up, with my Hunk down the far end of the carriage, and Hunk’s mum, dad, sister & her man sitting partially together, over 2 sets of 4 seats facing eachother.
Getting seated TOGETHER
I spotted the attendant and asked him if he would kindly re-seat us so that we were together. He was unable to do this but said we could switch with people if we could find people going all the way to Hanoi that wouldn’t mind.
I asked the attendant to help me do this since I don’t speak Vietnamese, but he was relatively unwilling. He was already stressed from having to work on this train. I didn’t blame him! As he was not willing to help, it was down to me if I was going to get to sit with my Hunk for this godforsaken journey. At least with him I might be able to bear it!
I asked a couple of folks if they wouldn’t mind moving. It turned out my Hunk had 2 seats to himself (until someone got on and wanted it) so I used that as my bargaining chip.
Thankfully, a lovely older Vietnamese gentleman said he would move, as he also had 2 seats to himself, right behind where the rest of our party was.
We were so pleased to be seated together…
Becoming the object of a child’s affections
After settling in with my hunk and getting used to the new surroundings, I was having a great time on the train! It was a wild time. The Vietnamese television was hilarious, playing either Vietnam Idol or a series of prank shows.
Sure enough, a little Vietnamese cutie found us and decided that we were a bit of alright! This began a period where we played games and peek a boo and school-yard clap games.
Eventually we grew weary of entertaining the cutie and pretended we were asleep so that he would lose interest in us and we might actually try to sleep.
The Great Escape
Not exactly an escape, but I remind you that Hunk and I are in someone else’s seats. Every time the train pulled into a new station, if we weren’t actually asleep, I got worried we’d be split up so my plan was to have both myself and the Hunk pretendwe were asleep (so much pretend sleep, not much real sleep going on!) so that no one would try to move us from our seats. We had grown accustomed to our little spot on this carriage and I wasn’t moving for nothing!
At one stage a man tapped the Hunk on the shoulder a few times to ask him to move, we played dumb until Hunk couldn’t help but ‘wake up’ and try to sort the situation out. However it seemed like it was taking a turn for the worse so I couldn’t help but step in. I tugged my hunk to sit back down to avoid anyone stealing his seat from under him and told the newcomer that people are in our seats and he should just make do and find a seat.
Obviously a lie. But he backed down and found a new seat. Sometimes you have to play the game. And I wasn’t giving up cuddle time for nobody.
Frozen
Once night fell and I was trying to get some rest in my awkward and uncomfortable chair from the 1950s, the driver decided to turn the AirCon to full blast. I only had a summers day outfit on, no sweater.
I felt like Olaf. I became a snowman. I shivered all night and tried every which way to get warm. I even resorted to putting my arms inside my tshirt and laying my body ON TOP of my hunks. As we were in close quarters, this was no bedroom scenario. But it felt like my only chance of surviving through til morning. Using my Bear Grylls skills here!
Victorious
Somehow, at 5am, we pulled into Hanoi train station and I’ve never been happier! Warmth was outside, and so was the ability to stand. It also meant that we had gotten through it!
Reflections
When I got on that train, I really thought it was going to be one of the worst experiences of my life. But somehow I really enjoyed it. Maybe it was the ‘we are all in this together’ attitude of the group, or maybe it was just that I liked being on that train.
I think my Hunk is the real reason though. He makes even the most difficult situations a joy. *loveydovey pukesville*
Vietnam Video
I created a video of our 2 week trip to Vietnam on the Magisto App, watch it here: Vietnam Video
Have you taken an epic train journey?
Australian expat, married to a Dutch guy, living in Amsterdam. Previously lived in London for 3 years, too! Lover of travel, coffee, brunch, beaches, fresh flowers, and family. Now a new mum, navigating life with a baby!
